Watch Review: Helm Khuraburi


Stretching your dollar, getting the most for your money, bang for your buck, I am sure all of these sayings we are quite familiar with. There is always a saying that I have been hearing lately as well that I am not that familiar with “good watches aren’t cheap, cheap watches aren’t good.” This stems from some people’s apprehension of going for a microbrand purchase. I have friends on both sides of this fence and as we delve into today’s review hopefully both sides will gain something for this.


Today I will be looking at Helm’s latest release, the Khuraburi. It is their follow up piece after the widely popular Vanuatu. The Khuraburi’s dial immediately grabs my attention from the initial unboxing of the watch. The unique hour markers are undeniably attention grabbers. They are nice and wide, extremely legible both in daylight and at night. Now Helm keeps the legibility train rolling here on the Khuraburi by adding large, wide hands. I think that the applied markers and the hand combination works great in terms of functionality and visual aesthetics. If you are using this watch in the water you will have no problems reading this dial, whether in clear or murky water. The double-domed sapphire with internal anti-reflective coating.


I like that the hour and minute hands have a nice, thin black border around the edges which gives a good contrast. What I also like what Helm did on this dial is that the hour markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9 are split, and the rest of the numbers are solid. This detail comes in handy when you need reference points in low lit or at quick glance. The second hand is sized perfectly as my personal preference which means it extends out to the minute/second track. This comes in handy when using the Khuraburi to time things to the exact second.


Something that I want to mention that lays credit to Helm’s thought process in this dial design is this: as I mentioned earlier the hands, markers are wide, so Helm opted to keep the rest of the dial clean/simple. They achieved this by not only keeping the text to a minimum but the also printed the text in a dark grey that is visible in certain angles/lighting and disappears in other angles/lighting. The lume treatment on the Khuraburi is definitely flashlight quality as you can see in the pic below which was taking after about 30 seconds under a light source and in partial light. You can imagine what it looks in complete darkness and with a stronger/longer charging.


The case of the Khuraburi is almost as unique as the dial and the bezel does an excellent job framing this dial. The bezl functions way better than one would expect at this price point. Not only does it line up perfectly with the 12 o’clock marker, but there is absolutely no extra play whatsoever. Nice tight 120 click action. The sapphire crystal insert looks great and allows the C3 to glow clear like a flashlight at night.

316L Stainless Steel
Insert: Flat Sapphire with C3 Luminous Markings
120-Click, Unidirectional Rotation
Diameter: 43 mm
Removable / Replaceable: Yes


The rounded sides of the case give the Khuraburi a nice finished look. The Khuraburi is also a good size that will appease fans of both larger cases and smaller cases. Coming is at 45mm with the crown, 16mm thick and 49mm lug to lug. The Khuraburi has great wrist presence and great wearability both in and out of the water. The Khuraburi has curved lugs that are drilled which makes strap changes a bit easier with less chance of scratching the lugs with the right tool.


The screw down crown located at the 10 o’clock position offers a unique look and change of pace from the typical 3 o’clock position. The 316 L stainless 8mm crown is easy to grip and use with both dry and wet hands. The crown is finished off with the Helm logo making have a completed look and feel. Which coincidentally matches the screw down case back which features a larger Helm logo smack dab in the middle. Without any crown guards this gives the Khuraburi’s brushed 316L stainless steel case an overall clean appearance. The case is guaranteed WR to 990 ft.

The movement ticking away at 21,600 beats per hour is the automatic Seiko NH38. With a projected accuracy rate of -20 ~ +40 seconds per day and a power reserve of 40 hours, you won’t have to worry about accuracy or winding this watch very often if you have it on your wrist for a few days. The Khuraburi used for my review was timed at +10 seconds per day while it was on the beach, in the ocean, hiking, rock/cliff climbing and chilling at home.
Seiko Instruments NH38 (Automatic Mechanical)
Hacking and Manual Winding Functions
Accuracy: -20 ~ +40 seconds/day

The Helm comes with a nice assortment of options for attaching the Khuraburi to your wrist. It comes with a SS2 brushed stainless steel bracelet with matching brushed finished clasp.  The 22 mm bracelet tapers to 20 mm at clasp. The bracelet has a maximum Length: 190 mm (7.5″) and a minimum Length: 110 mm (4.375″). The bracelet is well made, solid and adds some weight to the Khuraburi, total weight with the bracelet is 225 grams. The clasp on the bracelet is solid. I had the same type of clasps on a watch that cost $4,000 and the clasp on the Khuraburi’s bracelet is so much better in terms of thickness and stability. On the included nylon strap it weighs in at 125 grams.

NS1 Nylon Strap comes in your choice of 4 colors and it features stainless steel Buckle and keeper rings. The CS1 canvas straps pictured in some photos is also available but separately If you purchase the canvas strap with the Khuraburi, Helm offers a discount for the canvas strap. I am a sucker for canvas straps, so it was a no brainer for me personally. The canvas strap looks fantastic and is well made.

$300 for the Khuraburi total package. You can decide for yourself if you think this is a good value for your dollar. My personal feelings are that this value is hard to beat for what you get in terms of the extras and in terms of the overall quality of the Khuraburi. I have had the opportunity to review each of Helm’s previous releases and I can say with all honesty that each release is an improvement from their last offering. The lume on the Khuraburi is unbelievablely good on both the dial and on the bezel.


I can with confidence recommend the Khuraburi to anyone looking to enter the microbrand world, anyone looking for a great “daily beater”, or to seasoned “vets” of the watch world looking for a fun watch to wear. My personal highlights of the Khuraburi are the crown and bezel, both look great and more importantly function perfectly. The area of improvement if I am going the nit picky route are the end links in terms of the middle of the end links don’t match the angle of the middle of the actual links and the sides of end links are finished a bit rough. Other than that, I can’t really find any other areas for improvement at this price point.

Thanks to Helm and thank you all for reading. As always, I welcome your comments and questions below.




      • Will do. I may actually hold out for when they have some Vanuatus back in stock. But really couldn’t go wrong with either. Or both!!!

  1. Did end getting a Vanuatu when they became available again with both the black lumed and they steel bezel, and a khaki canvas strap as well. Great watch and extremely versatile. The different bezels completely change the look, which I’m sure is just as true with the Khuraburi as well. And the canvas straps they offer are really good quality, so much so that I ended up ordering a few more to use on the Helm, as well as a few other watches. Definitely not disappointed with the quality of the brand.

    • Awesome to hear. The canvas is a great strap and like you said very well made. The Vanuatu is a fantastic watch and a great value. Wear it in good health my friend. Thanks for the update 🤜🏽💥🤛🏽

  2. Good review. I just ordered one as well with the blue dial and blue/white bezel insert. Because the case is 42mm but the height 16mm, Do you find the watch being too tall? Also, the weight of the watch when fitted with the bracelet, Do you find the watch to be too heavy? In the pictures it looks as if the watch wears slightly smaller than its dimensions… Any thoughts?

  3. here it’s the future, end of 2021, and finally got around to getting one of these after really liking it about 3 years ago. super pictures that really give a feel for the watch. i won’t re-elaborate your review, as you called how nice this is pretty well, but the mark of a great watch beyond the specs is enjoyment on the wrist. the most important stares your watch will get are the ones from you…and i can’t stop staring at this on my wrist. i simply love it and the way it looks there.

    beyond that, the legibility and superb operation of the bezel are top rate at any price (alignment and operation is better than any diver i’ve ever had, including the new Rolex sub i’d bought in 1998).

    while i love the styling, looking at it from the side i’ll admit it has a 1960s jumbo jet quality to it, but it is a 300m diver and meant to be a heavy chunk of change, so overall it’s not a problem for me. extra kudos for the domed crystal, sapphire bezel insert, and option for the crown at 10 (which i took), plus the retro cool of no crown guards (none needed).

    great piece.

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